At Paris CDG, the Icelandair 757 in the old blue-and-white colorscheme that would take me to Keflavík airport. I was on my way to Reykjavík to catch a "ship of opportunity," a cheap way to do science on a commercial ship already traveling an interesting route. On this container freighter route between Iceland, Newfoundland, and the US, I'd be measuring temperature profiles and taking samples for salinity, carbon, plankton, and nutrients, in an ongoing decade-old program to monitor changes in the North Atlantic. My reward was a few days in Iceland...